There is nothing quite so magnificent as the blooms of an amaryllis, flamboyant trumpet-shaped blooms on tall stems. The large-flowered varieties of amaryllis (Hippeastrum) are called Dutch or South African hybrids. Extremely easy to grow, you can rely on amaryllis to provide you with several stately blooms during the holiday season. In fact, amaryllis makes an unforgettable gift for Christmas. Just follow a few basic steps and you will be rewarded with a fantastic show!

Amaryllis are sold in various sizes to accommodate everyone's needs, from smaller starter bulbs to huge bulbs that will bear several blooms at a time. There are also several 'miniature' amaryllis varieties that offer a more delicate, less formal bloom. The arching, strap-like leaves usually don't appear until after the bulb has bloomed. Amaryllis are tropical, hardy only in Zones 9 and 10.

Potting Your Amaryllis
Choose a pot approximately 2 inches larger in diameter than the bulb and several inches deeper. A 6-inch standard clay pot would comfortably fit a 4” bulb. The soil mix you use should be light and airy. The bulb relies on the soil to hold adequate water and nutrients, so choose a good quality potting soil such as Bachman's Mighty Bloom Potting Soil.

Place the bulb in the soil so that the neck of the bulb is exposed and firm the soil. You can expose as much as 1/3 of the bulb, but you may find that the weight of the blooms will uproot newly potted bulbs. If you pack the soil too tightly, it will be difficult to water adequately.

Watering Your Amaryllis
Make sure the soil is thoroughly moistened with lukewarm water. After this initial moistening, you won't need to water for two weeks or until you see active new growth. At that point, start watering regularly to keep the soil moist, but not soggy. While in bloom, they will need little or no water.

Growing Conditions
Place your newly potted amaryllis in a warm, shaded place for the first two weeks. Uniform day and night temperatures will give the best and fastest response. After the first two weeks you will probably see the flower bud beginning to emerge. The flower bud can be distinguished from leaves since it is fat and the leaves are flat. When the bud starts up, move the plant to a lighter area, but not into direct sunlight. Continue to water as needed and enjoy the show. Cooler temperatures when the flower buds begin to open extend the life of the blooms. As the flowers fade, cut the bloom stalk off just above the bulb.

Saving the Bulbs for Future Flowering
After flowering, amaryllis should be kept growing indoors until warm weather in spring (after any danger of frost is past). Water as needed and fertilize every 2-3 weeks. When spring arrives, you can either set the pot outdoors or slip the bulb with roots intact into the garden. If you are planting it out, plant where the soil is well drained. Outdoors, amaryllis like strong light but prefer to be shaded from the heat of the afternoon. Water and feed the bulb every 3 weeks for the summer.

If you want your amaryllis to bloom again during the holiday season, you need to take it up and dry it out by August 1. For three months, keep it where it is cool and dark and don't water it. Leaves can be removed just above the neck of the bulb to encourage dormancy, but keep as much of the root system intact as possible. If it is still growing in its original pot, simply move the plant without disturbing the soil. Often the coolest, darkest, driest place in the house is the basement, but if a basement isn't available, a closet or garage will do.

Remember; don't water it for three months. On Halloween, you can start the whole process again and expect to be rewarded with the beautiful flowers during the holidays. The bulb may need repotting if your bulb has grown much. Although it's tempting, and possible, to make your amaryllis bloom more than once a year, you usually end up with the bulb decreasing in size instead of increasing.  The bigger the bulb, the more bloom you will get.