The most important step in sodding, as in seeding, is soil preparation. Start by taking a soil test to determine the soil pH, which measures how acid or alkaline a soil is. Grass grows best at a pH between 6.0 and 7.5. Testing the levels of phosphorus and potassium will determine if the levels are adequate for good root growth. Soil test kits are available at Bachman's Garden Centers or through the University of Minnesota soil testing laboratory.

Cultivate the soil to break up any compaction and, at the same time, the soil can be amended with additional organic matter, such as compost or peat moss, to improve the soil structure. Heavy clay soil can be loosened up by tilling in two-to-three cubic yards of peat per 1,000 square feet. This is also the time to add additional phosphorus and potassium at the rates indicated by the soil test.

Roll the soil to firm it and moisten it before laying the sod. Do not keep sod rolled and stacked for more than 48 hours after delivery. Lay the sod in a brick-like pattern, staggering the joints. Avoid large gaps between the strips of sod. Roll or tamp the entire area to firmly press the sod against the soil. Apply Bachman's Turf Food at one-half the usual recommended rate, and water the area thoroughly. Water once a day to keep the soil moist, but not soggy. In the heat of summer, freshly laid sod may require water several times a day.

The roots will take two-to-three weeks to become established. After root establishment, treat the areas like any existing lawn. Mow the sod when the grass gets 3-to-3½ inches tall, setting the mower height at 2½ inches.

Revised: 03/10/98