Seeding a New Lawn
There are two choices when putting in a new lawn. Sodding, while
expensive, promises an instant lawn. The alternative is seeding. Seeding
a lawn has many advantages, only one of which is the lower cost involved.
Starting a lawn from seed allows for control over what type of grasses are
best suited for the area. Putting down sod is essentially buying a lawn
of only one species that has been grown with professional care under ideal
conditions. Whether seeding or sodding, proper soil preparation is essential
for the project's success. Good soil preparation includes taking a soil
test to determine nutrient levels, cultivating the soil to eliminate or
reduce any compaction that may exist, and possibly adding some organic matter,
such as compost or peat moss, to improve the structure of the soil.
The addition of two-to-three cubic yards of peat or quality topsoil per 1,000 square feet will help open up a heavy clay soil. Incorporate any fill into the native soil to avoid layering soil types. Work any additional phosphorus and potassium fertilizer into the top six inches at the rates recommended by the soil test. Pack the soil lightly by using a roller about one-third full of water.
The best time to establish a new lawn by seed is mid-August to mid-September. Fewer weeds germinate at this time, and moderating temperatures encourage grass root growth. There is ample time for the grass to become established before Winter. Early Spring is the next best choice, however, there is increased competition from weeds. Eliminating perennial weeds is very important. Using chemical herbicides, such as Roundup or Finale that do not have a residual effect in the soil, is better than cultivating or digging. It is very important that all debris is removed. Do not bury lumber, tree stumps, or other woody material. Buried rotting wood can cause mushrooms in the lawn or a condition known as fairy ring.
Follow the same steps to prepare the soil for sod or seed. If seeding, loosen the top one-half inch of soil to allow for seed coverage. Choose the right blend of grass seed for the area that is to be sown. Follow the recommended application rates using a rotary fertilizer spreader. Cover seed slightly by lightly raking the area. Twenty percent of the seed can remain on the surface. Cover seed with a thin layer of peat moss or a germination blanket. On slopes, use burlap or a clean mulch to protect from erosion. Roll the seed with a roller one-third filled with water to ensure a good soil contact with the seed. Keeping the soil moist, not soggy, at all times is very important to establishing good growth. Apply enough water to moisten the soil four-to-six inches deep. This promotes a deeper root system. Initially, seed may need to be watered two-to-three times a day until the root system is established.
When the new grass is approximately two inches tall, fertilize with Bachman's turf food at one-half the recommended rate. When the new grass reaches approximately 3½ inches tall, begin mowing. Set the lawn mower at 2½ inches. Watering should then be reduced in frequency. A once-a-week watering of one inch is best. Continue this practice throughout the growing season. If weed control is needed, apply a selective herbicide, following manufacturer's directions.
For further information, read online our care sheet on "Seeding Your Lawn" and our "Lawn Care Calendar".
Revised: 03/10/98
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