Another holiday favorite has arrived! Amaryllis
bulbs are now here. If you are looking for
something beautiful and easy to grow, the
amaryllis is for you. Here are a few basics to get
you started. Amaryllis bulbs will usually start to
bloom about 4-6 weeks after planting. To enjoy
blooms throughout the holiday season and winter,
stagger your plantings about one week apart.
Select your favorite color from the many that are
available. Many find Red Lion irresistible, but the
other colors are just as pretty. Choose a bulb that is firm and has no soft spots. Larger bulbs will often produce 2-3 stems of 4-6 flowers per stem. For potting, select a pot that is about 2” larger in diameter than the bulb and a few inches deeper. Be sure to use a pot that has drainage holes so excess water doesn’t collect in the pot. Use a good quality potting soil such as Bachman’s Mighty Earth Potting Soil. Place the bulb in the pot so that about 1/3 of the bulb is exposed, spread out the existing roots and fill in around them with soil. Fill the remainder of the pot and gently firm the soil. After planting, thoroughly moisten the soil with lukewarm water. After this initial watering, do not water again until you see active new growth, which is usually the emerging flower bud. Place the newly potted amaryllis in a warm, shaded place for the first couple weeks. After about two weeks you will probably see the flower bud beginning to emerge. With amaryllis, the flower buds usually emerge before the leaves. The flower bud can be distinguished from leaves since it is fat and the leaves are flat. When the
bud starts up, move the plant to a well-lit area, but not into direct sunlight and resume watering. Continue to water as needed, keeping the soil just slightly moist, not soggy. Cooler temperatures when the flower buds begin to open
extend the life of the blooms. Remove the flowers as they fade, then cut the bloom stalk off just above the bulb. If you want to keep the amaryllis for future blooming, see our Bachman’s Information Sheet: Success with Amaryllis for tips and suggestions.
Pruning Questions
We talked about pruning earlier in the season, but we continue to get a lot
of questions. Here’s a quick review: Woody plants that have problems with
disease transmission during the growing season such as elms (Dutch elm
disease), oaks (oak wilt) and mountain ash (fireblight) need to be pruned
while they are dormant. But that’s only if they need pruning. If they don’t,
leave them alone. If they need pruning, it can be done from the time when
the leaves fall in autumn until late winter. This is not the time of year to prune anything that blooms early in the season such as magnolias, lilacs, azaleas
and rhododendrons. If you prune now, you’ll reduce or eliminate their flowers. And evergreens shouldn’t be pruned now, either. Some deciduous plants can
be pruned now, but they don’t have to be. Wait until late winter or very early spring. Unless you have a pressing need to prune now, why not wait? There
is actually some food and moisture stored in the twigs and branches
that the plants may need to help them through winter.
Cutting Back Perennials
We’ve talked about leaving some perennials standing over the winter, but since it is easier and neater to mulch with them all cut back, the question is “Does it harm the plant if you cut them back?” There are a few perennials that we know for sure winter more successfully when they are not cut back until early spring. For instance, they found through tests in Iowa that garden mums are much more winter hardy when the stems are left standing over winter. Commercial growers of ornamental grasses are finding the same is true with their plants. While there haven’t been extensive tests on many other varieties of perennials, the basic rule of thumb has developed that if a plant turns to mush after a killing frost, cut it back. If a plant simply dries and stays standing, leave it alone. So, we don’t know for sure if cutting them back in the fall harms the plants, but we do know it is beneficial to leave the stems standing to keep the snow and mulch in place. Save yourself some work this fall; you know there will be a beautiful day in the early spring when you’re just itching to get outside and ‘do something’.
Perennial garden clean up is just the thing to satisfy the gardener’s desire. Bachman’s Information Sheet: Winterizing Your Perennials
Winterberry
Now that the wind and rain have taken the fall color from our trees and
shrubs, one of our favorite plants for winter interest is revealing its color. Winterberry is a member of the holly family. These wonderful, compact shrubs are much appreciated for their screening qualities and stunning fruit. The berries are formed on female plants – but like all hollies, a male and female plant are needed in order for the female to set fruits. Plant one male for every 5-7 female plants. If you want red berries, try ‘Red Sprite’, and for red-orange berries plant ‘Afterglow’. ‘Jim Dandy’ is the male pollinator for either one of these hardy shrubs. Winterberries prefer sunny to part sunny locations with moist, acidic
soil. The plants grow to about 6’ and have a rounded shape. Their shiny
green foliage turns yellow in the fall. Besides being beautiful, birds love
the berries in late winter and early spring.
Sticky Leaves on Houseplants
Stickiness on plants is a good indication of an infestation of a sucking
insect such as aphids, scale or mealy bugs. These insects exude a sticky
substance referred to as honeydew and it drips onto the lower leaves or
surrounding surfaces such as the tabletop or floor. Sometimes the insects are obvious, but other times you need to look closely at the underside of leaves or stems to locate the culprits. If the insect problem goes unnoticed for a while,
you may even see a black mold called sooty mold start growing on the sticky
leaf surfaces. Recommendations for treating the problem will vary depending
on the specific type of plant and the type of insect. Insecticidal soap and many other insecticides will work on aphids. Mealy bugs and scale are more
effectively treated with horticultural oils or systemic insecticides. Be sure to read, understand and follow label instructions before using any insecticide in your home. If you have questions about how to proceed, bring a sample in
to one of our stores. We can show you the treatment options.
Bachman’s Information Sheet: Indoor Insect and Disease Problems
Garden Tips for Early November
Continue to water spruce top planters until the soil freezes.
Apply animal repellents such as Liquid Fence to the trees and shrubs that
the critters find tasty. All that October rain may have washed off any
that was applied previously.
Save fallen leaves to use as mulch on your perennial garden. Wait until
the soil freezes before spreading them over the garden.
Continue to mow the grass as long as it continues to grow and to keep it clear
of fallen leaves. It is OK to leave finely chopped leaves on the lawn.
There is still time to fertilize your lawn if you haven’t done so yet.
Do not apply fertilizer after the ground has frozen.
Inspect your houseplants for insects. Look especially close at those plants
you had outside over the summer. Insects multiply rapidly indoors so
it helps to catch the problem early.
Winterize tender roses after a week of freezing temperatures. Typically,
tender hybrid roses are winterized by mid-November.
Flowers and gifts from Bachman’s make any day a special one. When you order your flowers or gifts online, you know you’ll be getting a beautiful fresh floral arrangement from a trusted florist known for outstanding floral design, plus quality and service.
If you’re sending flowers or gifts out of town, you can rely on us to choose the best florist from either the FTD or Teleflora nationwide flower network. Florists who can be counted on to deliver the best fresh floral arrangements and gifts, even when doing a same day delivery.
