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Fruit Trees      

Light	Full sun is best. Will grow in part shade but will produce less fruit.
Soil	Prefers fertile, well drained, light soil. Mix existing soil with organic matter, such as compost.
Planting	Dig the hole wider and deeper than the existing root ball. Plant at the same depth as in the container.
Mulch	Provide 2-4 inches of mulch. Mulching cools the soil, conserves water and helps with weeds.
Watering	After planting, water well. To ensure strong root growth, apply Plant Starter. Once established, trees require an average 1” of moisture per week.
Fertilizer	Fertilize with a balanced fertilizer such as 10–10–10 each spring
Spray	A regular spray program helps ensure a disease-free harvest.
Pruning	The best time to prune all fruit trees is in March. Use a looping shear or pruning saw. Remove dead branches and suckers. Prune any branches that cross each other. Prune branches that are growing up from the center of the plant. Prune branches that are growing down.
Winter Care	Wrap trunks with tree wrap and remove in the spring.

Apple Maggot	Apple maggots cause two types of injury. The first injury damages the area around the site where the eggs are laid. The flesh stops growing, resulting in a sunken, misshapen and dimpled area. The second injury occurs as the maggots tunnel through the flesh. As a result, the pulp breaks down, discolors and starts to rot. (Pictured) Control by discarding any apples that have fallen to the ground. If the problem is extreme, apply an insecticide two days after any rainfall, irrigation or sprinkling of 1/2 inch or more beginning July 1.
Apple Scab	Scab infections on leaves start as olive green to brown spots with an irregular or feathered edge. As leaf infections grow, they may merge together and assume a dark brown velvety appearance. Severely infected leaves may turn yellow and drop prematurely. Scab infections on young fruit start out as olive green to brown spots. The best way to deal with apple scab is to avoid it altogether by planting disease-resistant varieties. Sprays should start when the leaf buds have swollen and begun to open so that about half an inch of leaf tissue is visible. Check fungicide labels for the recommended spray interval.
Cedar Apple Rust	Cedar-apple rust causes leaf spots on apple and crabapple trees. Leaf spots are first yellow, then bright orange-red. Very infrequently, fruit may exhibit a similar infection. The best way to deal with apple scab is to avoid it altogether by planting disease-resistant varieties. Sprays should start when the leaf buds have swollen and begun to open so that about half an inch of leaf tissue is visible. Check fungicide labels for the recommended spray interval.
Coddling Moths	Coddling moth larvae often tunnel towards the apple cores and feed on the seeds before exiting the fruit. Crumbly golden-brown excrement is sometimes found at the hole where the larva exited the apple. Control by discarding any apples that have fallen to the ground. The best timing is to spray at petal fall, i.e. when most or all of the petals have fallen from the apple blossoms. Do not treat before this occurs; sprays will be ineffective and will also kill pollinating bees. Make a second spray, 7-10 days later (check the label for the exact interval).
Curculios	Plum curculio adults are mottled brownish, blackish, and grayish weevils or "snout beetles.” The slit cut in the apple’s skin by the female becomes a tan patch of apple skin with a distinctive shape. The best timing is to spray at petal fall, i.e. when most or all of the petals have fallen from the apple blossoms. Do not treat before this occurs; sprays will be ineffective and will also kill pollinating bees. Make a second spray, 7-10 days later (check the label for the exact interval).
Asian Lady Beetle	If beetles are found feeding in apples, they are multicolored Asian Lady Beetles. They only infest fruit that is already damaged. Picking up fallen apples and removing damaged apples still on the tree will help reduce the number of Lady Beetles in your apple planting. Insecticides are not a practical option.
Leaf Spot	This disease is caused by a fungus. Control measures for leaf spot should include raking leaves in the fall and pruning dead or dying branches to reduce the number of new infections the following year. The disease seldom causes serious damage and no chemical control is necessary. However, severe defoliation can cause reductions in fruit quality, yield and plant vigor. Therefore fungicides may be necessary on edible fruit trees.

Related Bachman's Information

	Currants & Gooseberries
	Raspberries
	Grapes
	Blueberries

Bachman's Floral, Gift & Garden Centers
Your local garden expert since 1885.
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Select source information provided by the University of Minnesota Extension, www.extension.umn.edu.

Last Updated: March 2012